Deadbolt Installation
The kick is the attack your door will actually face, and the deadbolt plus strike is what defeats it.
What this service actually involves
Most residential break-ins are force, not lock-picking: a kick near the latch, and builder-grade hardware gives up at the strike plate's half-inch screws. A properly installed deadbolt answers exactly that, a Grade 2 or better bolt with a full one-inch throw, a box strike, and three-inch screws that anchor into the stud behind the frame.
Installation covers new bores in doors that never had a deadbolt, upgrades of existing ones, keyed-alike setups so one key runs the house, and double-cylinder considerations where glass sits beside the door, discussed honestly including the fire-egress tradeoff they carry.
Questions, answered straight
Single or double cylinder near a glass panel?
Double cylinder stops the reach-through-and-turn attack but slows your own exit in a fire. The honest answer depends on the door and the household; both sides get laid out before you choose.
Is a Grade 1 deadbolt worth it on a house?
Usually the money is better spent on a Grade 2 bolt plus a reinforced strike and long screws. Grade 1 earns its price on commercial doors and specific risk cases.
Can all the new deadbolts share one key?
Keyed-alike across the house is standard practice, one key for every exterior door.
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