Ignition & Lock Repair
A key that sticks, grinds or will not turn has three suspects, and parts-swapping is not a diagnosis.
What this service actually involves
Ignition trouble comes in three flavors: the cylinder's brass wafers worn out of tolerance, the steering-lock pin jammed under wheel load, or the key itself worn smooth. Each has a different fix at a different cost, which is why the visit starts by isolating which one you actually have; the free check is rocking the steering wheel while turning, which cures the false alarms.
Real cylinder wear gets repaired rather than replaced wherever possible: rebuilt wafers keep your existing keys and your key ring intact. Replacement is reserved for cracked housings and chewed keyways, and when it happens the new cylinder is keyed to match your existing key wherever the platform allows.
Questions, answered straight
The key turns but nothing happens at all.
That points past the lock to the electrical side, the ignition switch behind the cylinder or the starter circuit. Different component, different fix, and the technician isolates which before anything is bought.
Should I spray WD-40 in there?
No. Oil-based sprays turn dust into grinding paste inside a cylinder. A puff of dry graphite is the only safe self-help; anything stickier makes the repair bigger.
Do I lose my keys if the cylinder is replaced?
Not if the hardware allows matching, which it usually does: the replacement gets keyed to your existing key so one key still runs the whole car.
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